Spring/Summer 2013 Ready-To-Wear Photo By Simon Armstrong

AS winner of the prestigious Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award, this season was Heohwan Simulation's time to shine. Established by Korean-born Hwan Heo just two years ago in 2010, the confidence and attention to detail in every look was impressive for a label in such early stages of infancy.

Currently in the third season of a ten-year vision - where each collection is inspired by Heo’s critical viewpoint of the history of fashion – today’s show was the amalgamation of a good few decades: Sixties shift dresses, Eighties Alaia-like perforated leather panels, and Nineties androgyny by way of oversized silhouettes, dropped shoulders and precision-cut tailoring.

2012 S/S collection

These references were neatly pulled together by what has become something of a trademark – a multitude a textural contrasts. Perspex appliqués and leather panelling paired with floaty silks imbued the collection with depth, and evoked an overall feeling of tough femininity that was certainly the most successful element and lasting impression of the show.

This young label showed today that it is a worthy successor to the likes of William Tempest, Hermione de Paula, and David Koma – all previous winners of the award. We look forward to seeing it develop its identity further as it moves towards its fourth season in February.

Hwan Heo

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